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When assembling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar high-end establishments. However, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has left the family totally surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” says the family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary achievement.